Havana

CubaUniversity of HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Последняя проверка: сентябрь 2026 г.

Havana is the only realistic base in Cuba for working a month. Vedado, the leafy grid neighborhood between the Malecón and the university, is calm by the city’s standards, easy to walk and has paladares, parks and electric tricycle routes a few cuadras (blocks) away. For dictating on foot there’s the Malecón, the seafront promenade, a short walk away.

The workday here is built around power and connection: deep work while the house has electricity, calls in the hours that usually hold and a plan B nearby. That’s why the host and their house matter more than the neighborhood, and it pays to arrive with everything sorted from abroad.

Содержание

Где жить

The most comfortable neighborhoods for a first month, with prices for a one-bedroom casa negotiated by the month:

Vedado

Leafy, walkable and calmer than the historic center, with big houses, hotels and the Malecón close by. The best balance of calm, services and street life, and the default choice for working. . Map · Airbnb monthly

Miramar

Residential, spacious and green, with embassies and houses more likely to have a generator. Very quiet for calls, but you need a ride for almost everything. Usually at the top of the range or above. Map · Airbnb monthly

Centro Habana

The cheapest of the central areas and intensely lively, but also the most run-down and the noisiest. It is the densest part of the city, although with the crisis there are fewer people about than there used to be. For tight budgets and street life, not for a month of calls. . Map · Airbnb monthly

Old Havana

The historic quarter: the most beautiful and the most tiring, with narrow streets, tourists, hustlers and fragile buildings. Better for a week than for a month of work. . Map · Airbnb monthly

Pick the house before the neighborhood

The Cuba guide filter applies street by street, because outages vary from one power circuit to the next:

  • Ask the host how many hours of outages the house has been getting lately.
  • Look for areas with electrical priority: those near hospitals or other facilities that need constant power almost never lose electricity. Some Airbnb listings mention it; if not, ask through the chat. They take some finding, but I spent a full week in one without a single power or water problem.
  • First week or two on Airbnb, then the month negotiated in cash with a host whose setup you’ve already seen working.
  • High floors without backup: elevators and water pumps stop in every blackout.
Vedado: old mansions, shade and a calmer pace than the historic center.Vedado, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Интернет и электричество

For a month, the Cubacel Tur covers you

No eSIM works well in Cuba: the base is the Cubacel Tur tourist SIM (how to buy and top it up, and which VPN to use, is in the Cuba guide). In Vedado, Centro Habana and Miramar, 4G is enough for messaging, voice and syncing; video calls are a stretch and get worse in the evening and during blackouts.

Wifi at home and outside

At home, the thing to look for is Nauta Hogar, ETECSA’s ADSL, with speeds of about 2 to 10 Mbps depending on the line. If the host already has the service, the unlimited Nauta Hogar Plus plan is paid in dollars from abroad ( for 30 days depending on speed): a clean way to include internet in the deal. Outside, the WIFI_ETECSA hotspots in parks, squares and hotels work with Nauta cards; hotels resell them at a markup. They’re fine for downloads, not for long voice sessions: too many people and too much noise.

When the power goes

The modem dies and nearby towers often go down too. In 2026 the whole city has lost power several times: after the March 4 blackout, authorities estimated at least 72 hours to restore service. A battery station that keeps the modem, laptop and phone alive is part of the work kit; ask whether the house has one.

If you stay longer

The Tur line lasts at most 90 days with top-ups: after that, a regular Cubacel line. For long stays, negotiate for Nauta Hogar Plus to be included or paid by you.

ETECSA runs every line in Havana, from street payphones to home ADSL.Vedado, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Где работать

Havana has no café-and-laptop culture: most cafeterías and paladares have no wifi and nobody expects you to settle in to work. With a caveat: you do see people with a laptop in the odd ice cream parlour or paladar that does have wifi, and nobody stops them. Checking the wifi networks on your phone as you walk in tells you whether the place will do. These are the options:

The house first

If the house has backup power and Nauta Hogar, it’s your main office, and better still with air conditioning: electricity is not what makes a month here expensive, when there is any. Plan the day around it: deep work while there’s power and connection, and calls in the time slots that usually hold.

Amarillo Coworking

The only real coworking: a converted mansion with a shaded patio on Calle 2 in Vedado. Hours and passes change: confirm them on their Instagram before going. Map

Big hotels as plan B

Lobbies, terraces and business centers at hotels such as the Hotel Nacional in Vedado, those on the Paseo del Prado or in Miramar have generators, air conditioning and wifi with access cards. They’re the most reliable place for a call when the house loses power.

  • Carry small dollar bills: many don’t accept pesos.
  • Find a corner away from the bar music.
  • Several chains closed hotels in 2026: check it’s still open before going.

Offline work

Always keep a setup ready for stretches without power or network: repositories pulled, dependencies cached, docs downloaded and voice notes to transcribe later.

Big hotels are Havana’s fallback office: generators, air conditioning and prices in dollars.Paseo del Prado, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Передвижение

Electric tricycles: what works

They’re the default way to get around. Some run fixed shared routes and save you real money; others act as direct taxis and charge more. You’ll find them on almost any busy central street; if you’re somewhere quiet, walking a few blocks to a busier street is usually enough. As a reference, Vedado to Old Havana costs about , at most.

  • Before getting in, ask whether it goes to your area and how much it costs.

La Nave

Havana’s Uber-style app (iOS, Android): you see the fare before booking and pay the driver in cash. Handy at night or for getting to Miramar; register before arriving, with a European number.

Almendrones and taxis

Almendrones are classic American cars working as shared taxis on fixed routes: cheap, but they run like a bus line with no stops and no signs. You wave them down in the middle of the street and you have to know the route, which is close to impossible for a foreigner on their own, so the first time go with someone local or ask your host which line serves you. Taxis are agreed before getting in and charge in dollars or pesos.

Guaguas

City buses cost very little, but they’re packed and running reduced schedules because of the fuel shortage. Don’t count on them to make a call on time.

On foot

Vedado and Old Havana are easy to walk, with shade on Vedado’s tree-lined streets. Avoid midday in summer and carry a torch if you walk back at night during a blackout.

Airport

From José Martí airport to Vedado takes about 30–40 minutes: a Viazul transfer for or a taxi for . Details in "Your first days in Havana".

Electric tricycles cover most short rides around central Havana.Vedado, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Голосовые сессии на улице

The Malecón

Havana’s great route for voice sessions: about 8 km of seawall from Old Havana to the edge of Miramar, flat, open and full of life. Map

  • Early morning and the hour before sunset, when the breeze comes in: there’s almost no shade.
  • A mic with wind noise reduction: wind and waves bury your voice.
  • North wind days: waves break over the wall and soak the sidewalk.
  • Resting the phone on the wall: keep it in hand or on a lanyard.

Shaded promenades

  • Avenida de los Presidentes (Calle G) and Paseo: they run down to the sea through Vedado, with trees and benches along the middle. Best for quiet sessions.
  • Paseo del Prado: a tree-lined boulevard between Centro Habana and Old Havana; more people and more noise.
  • Quinta Avenida in Miramar: a long, calm central walkway popular with joggers.

Hours and safety

Avoid midday from May to October. At dusk the promenades fill with people and feel fine, but during blackouts the streets go dark: head back earlier or carry a torch, and don’t take your phone out on empty stretches.

A day out

Playas del Este is about half an hour east by car: a long sandy coast where Habaneros go on weekends. Check the signal before planning a live session there.

The Malecón at sunset: sea breeze, open views and plenty of wind noise for the mic.Malecón, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Сколько стоит месяц

Monthly budget for one person, depending on where you live:

Centro Habana:

A casa and daily life in pesos, in exchange for more noise and decay. Map · Airbnb monthly

Vedado:

A casa; the most common choice for a working month. Map · Airbnb monthly

Miramar or a house with serious backup: from

Houses with a generator, solar panels or batteries ask more, and in Miramar you add transport. Map · Airbnb monthly

The month’s line items

  • Rent: the big one.
  • Connectivity: the Cubacel Tur Plus () plus one or two top-ups with the VPN always on, and Nauta Hogar Plus () if you pay for it.
  • Food: breakfast and dinner at the house for an agreed price, and meals at cafeterías from about .
  • Transport: tricycles at from Vedado to Old Havana.
  • Groceries: basics run into thousands of pesos (a liter of cooking oil was around in 2026). Convert with El Toque instead of memorizing prices.

What blows the budget

  • Everything priced in dollars: wifi and drinks at hotels and rooftops, taxis and the airport transfer.
  • Moving mid-month because the house had no backup power.
  • A buffer of small dollar bills for those costs.
Shop prices in Havana run in the thousands of pesos: convert with the day’s rate.Vedado, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Еда и повседневная жизнь

The street: cafeterías and ventanitas

The cheapest option: stalls and house windows selling pizza, bocaditos (sandwiches), croquetas, juices and coffee in pesos, all over Vedado and Centro Habana. It’s what people eat at midday.

The house

For a long stay, a host who cooks breakfast and dinner for an agreed fee is the most reliable meal plan in the city, especially on blackout days, when cooking gets complicated.

Paladares

The widest choice is in Vedado and Old Havana, from the criollo plate of congrí, pork and salad to places doing tacos or pasta. The trendy ones charge in dollars; ask your host for the neighborhood ones. In 2026, with the crisis, plenty are closed and the ones open don’t always have the whole menu: expect an ingredient to be missing and go with some flexibility, or message them on WhatsApp before crossing the city.

Where to shop

  • Agromercado at 19 y B in Vedado: the best-known fruit and vegetable market; it sells whatever is in season.
  • Mipymes: small private shops with imported basics priced in pesos, spread across the neighborhoods.
  • 3ra y 70 store in Miramar: a state dollar store with what the others lack.

Water and supplies

Keep bottled water and some snacks for outage days: with the crisis, bottled water also runs short at times.

The rhythm of the day

Errands and walks early, work through the middle hours if the house has power, and evenings outdoors, when the Malecón and Vedado’s street corners fill with people. Hosts usually do laundry for an agreed price.

The criollo plate: congrí, pork and whatever salad the day brings.Vedado, HavanaПосмотреть на карте

Your first days in Havana

Before flying

  • E-visa approved and D’Viajeros filled in within 72 hours before, with the QR saved as a PDF.
  • A printed medical insurance certificate that covers Cuba.
  • All the cash for your stay in EUR or USD, in small bills: you won’t be able to withdraw or pay by card there.
  • Cubacel Tur bought on SuenaCuba and the confirmation email at hand.
  • Proton VPN and a second VPN installed and tested.
  • Offline map of Havana, WhatsApp, and La Nave registered.
  • The first night’s address in "Calle 23 between G and H" format and the host’s WhatsApp; ask whether they can pick you up and for how much.
  • Taking the flight for granted: confirm with the airline a few days before.

At José Martí airport

International flights arrive at Terminal 3. At immigration they ask for your passport (the e-visa is linked to it) and the D’Viajeros QR, and may ask for your insurance and return ticket; they don’t stamp your passport.

  • Collect the SIM at the ETECSA counter after immigration (24 hours, with passport). If you didn’t buy it, the airport wifi lets you buy it there.
  • Change at the CADECA only what you need for the transfer, if you’re not paying in euros or dollars.
  • Nothing valuable in checked luggage: bags do get pilfered.

From the airport to the city (30–40 minutes)

  • Viazul transfer to the center for , with daily departures: the cheapest option; it drops you in the Vedado area.
  • Taxi at the terminal: depending on how you negotiate. I paid , and there’s usually some room if you haggle a little.
  • Pickup arranged by your host, with the price agreed beforehand.
  • "Drivers" who approach you inside the terminal, and getting in without settling the price.

The first day

  • With your host: how many hours of outages there are, where the backup power is, when the water tank fills and the wifi password.
  • Change money with them at that day’s El Toque rate.
  • Bottled water and basics at the 19 y B agromercado or a mipyme.
  • First work morning at the house if there’s power; if not, a big hotel or Amarillo Coworking.
  • To get around, a tricycle: ask the price before getting in.

Короткие советы

  • In Vedado the streets parallel to the sea have odd numbers (17, 19, 23) and the perpendicular ones letters or even numbers (G, H, Paseo, 2, 4): that’s all you need to find your way.
  • Calle 23 is Vedado’s main axis: if you can’t find a tricycle or taxi, walk to it.
  • Go easy on the water: the house tank is finite, and one long shower can leave it empty until the next refill.
  • Buy what you need when you see it: what shops and mipymes stock changes from week to week.
  • Before an important call, have plan B ready: battery charged, data on your phone and the nearest hotel located.
  • Keep small dollar bills and pesos in separate pockets, and pay without showing your wad.